Risotto – a gift of colonialism
The veil of times
gone by covers a big part of the history of riziculture in Italy, but some
facts are known. The Romans knew rice, but they cultivated it for medicinal
purposes only, not as a food grain. The Arabian invasion of parts of Europe
established rice fields early on in Spain and Sicily. They were exporting rice
from the fertile island Sicily already during the tenth century. During
following centuries the popularity of rice grew among the wealthy owing to the
exorbitant prices of the product.
In the 15th
century budding capitalists invested heavily into the clearing of the Lombardy
plains in northern Italy to grow rice there. The flat lands, abundance of water
and humidity, especially in the Po Valley, provided the perfect environment for
this crop. The growing towns of Venice, Milan and Ferrara made this a hugely
profitable investment. Unfortunately, only the capitalists profited from this
development. The workers, many of them children, were practically kept as
slaves.
During the
centuries rice became a staple in this part of Italy. The cooking technique of
risotto was invented some time along the way. The most famous of all the
risotto recipes is undoubtedly the risotto alla Milanese. This goes back to the
year 1574. The magnificent Gothic cathedral, the duomo of Milano, was being
built. A young apprentice named Valerius was responsible for colouring the
glass windows. Because he had obtained a brilliant yellow colour, everybody
joked that he had used saffron for the glass. Tired of the teasing, he added
saffron to the risotto which was served at his master’s wedding. The rice
tasted so good, that saffron remains the essential ingredient of risotto alla
Milanese.
Even today the
fields flooded for rice characterise the countryside only a few minutes away
from downtown Milan. Growing rice relied heavily on
cheap labour until the 1960s when machines took over the harvesting. Before,
thousands of women called mondine left their homes in Emilia and Veneto to go
to work in the rice fields.
They became a legendary sight in northern Italy. For eight hours,
they worked barefoot in the water, protected from the sun by large straw hats.
Dressed in short pants and long sleeves, they slowly walked backward, bending
toward the ground to pick up weeds that infested the rice fields. Famous are
the melodies they sang—about their tough days, their resentment for their
supervisors, and about love and their homes far away.
The dramatic neo-realistic movie “Riso Amaro” (“Bitter Rice”),
produced by Dino De Laurentiis in 1950, revolves around the lives of the
mondine, starring his later wife, the great Italian actress Silvana Mangano.